Hi Everyone,
Well I tried out the scraper and it worked! Saved me a lot of time trying to smooth out the roughness inside of the bowl.
Here's a couple of photos to look at:
These two photos show the bowl on the lathe-
VW
Hi Everyone,
Well I tried out the scraper and it worked! Saved me a lot of time trying to smooth out the roughness inside of the bowl.
Here's a couple of photos to look at:
These two photos show the bowl on the lathe-
Hi All,
Well the scraper for the Hollow Master arrived this afternoon. I use scrapers a lot to smooth and help finish the insides, and outsides, of bowls and boxes. Here's a couple of photos:
In this photo you can see the swan-neck tool that Robert Sorby makes. This was developed to hollow out deep turnings like vases and since the cutter at the tip is removable a scraper tip can be installed to help smooth the surfaces of bowls, etc:
Oh Hello All,
I am really beat today. We finally finished a 6 month total clean out of our place. We've gotten rid of old furniture, a car, old clothing, books, and assorted other stuff. I feel like I've lost 100 pounds!
I spent more time on the coffee table today, re-working the design, the colors, and other stuff. Here's today's photos:
The first thing I did was ditch the wooden frame and substituted a pipe frame. As I had the pipe and the pain in stock, this didn't cost me anything upfront. I cleaned the pipe, scrubbed it well with soap and water and then dried it in my kitchen oven. After it cooled off I sprayed a primer on it and let it dry over night. Then this morning I painted it a bright green and here's what it looks like right now:
Hi All,
Well, I don't usually mess up things but this time is one of those times where something went wrong. Here's today's photos:
Here it is dry fitted and in place in my living room and it's huge! I specifically down-sized it so it would fit in my small living room. And I couldn't make up my mind between the wooden framework or making a frame out of pipe.
Well, you can see how large it is-hell, you could land an airplane on the top! And it's way too tall for a coffee table. So the table is going downstairs for a re-work and a plumbing pipe frame underneath. We used to have a plumbing pipe coffee table and when I disassembled it a few years back, I kept the pipes. And eliminating the wood frame gets rid of the orange stain. A win-win for everyone.
Hi Everyone,
Well, I've partially assembled the top and I'm reconsidering the framework for the table. Here's a couple of photos from today:
Hi All,
Well, I've taken the bowl off the lathe. The bowl is very close to 4" deep and to avoid cutting into the slot for the vice underneath (I did that once-what a disaster that was) I'm going to stop hollowing now and not press my luck.
The bowl still needs a fair amount of work but the bulk of the hard work is past. Here's today's photos:
In this first photo you can see a lot of deep scratching on the inside wall. That will have to be removed by turning:
Hi Everyone,
Well, it's been a busy day but I got a lot done. Here's today's photos:
I've got all the lumber for the framework cut up and I must say I'm very pleased with the way the parts came out. The next thing I did was sand everything with 150 grit sandpaper:
Hi Everyone,
Whew! It's been a long day today and I'm sitting down with my feet up. In addition to the salad bowl project in the previous posting, I'm beginning another project and that is, building a small, simple coffee table for my living room.
I have a small living room and I need an equally small coffee table that isn't expensive to build and that can be moved down to the family room if needed there. I'm going to be modifying a set of plans for a dining room bench that I found on the Shanty2Chic website. I'm going to shorten the length and widen the width and that should produce a small coffee table. I'll be referencing these plans as we go.
I will begin the project by dividing it into two parts-the top, which will be a bread board type design and the framework which is composed of the legs, the cross braces, and the stretchers. I purchased 4-2"x4"x8s" and
2-2"x6"x8"s of kiln dried pine.
The Frame
I began by cutting out the following parts from the 2x4s:
4 legs, 18" long,
2 cross braces 18" long,
2 cross braces 20" long,
2 stretchers 45" long.
Hi Everyone,
Here's an update on the bowl-I'm still hollowing it out after several days off last week. I'm going slowly on this turn so the remaining wood has the time to adjust to a different shape. Here's a photo from this morning-the bowl is a little over 3" deep at this point:
Hello All,
For those of you in the US, I hope you're all having a good Labor Day weekend. For everyone else, I hope you're having a good day.
Well, the bottom of the bowl is finished so it's time to flip it over and create the rim and begin hollowing it out. Before I did that though there were two important questions to be asked and answered, namely how deep should the bowl be and how thick should the wall be?
The entire blank was 5 inches thick, with a 1/2 slot on the bottom to accommodate the Nova chuck. So I'm going to go with a depth of approx. 4 inches. And since the sides of the bowl are concave, I'm going to turn the wall to a thickness of 3/4".
Ok, with that decided, here are today's photos:
Hello All,
Well I was back in the wood shop today and I finished the bottom of the bowl and I've probably finished turning the sides as well. Here's today's photos:
Here is the bowl before I began working on it. The sides are rather straight and so they need to be made more concave both along the side and underneath the top edge. So back on the lathe it went: